Words by Bex Whitley, Photographs via Acne Studios

With the term ‘masculine energy’ thrown around a little too frequently as of late, Acne’s AW25 collection arrives as a breath of fresh air. Creative Director Jonny Johansson used Paris Fashion Week as the perfect stage to explore modern masculinity, drawing from his own experiences as a father. Inspired by the question,’What makes a classic’ he challenges conventional ideals of manliness and physical perfection. His latest vision balances refined sophistication with an effortless, undone quality—offering a wardrobe that is both impeccably polished and nonchalantly cool.

Acne has long embraced oversized silhouettes and exaggerated proportions, but this season, traditional tailoring is subtly redefined. A nostalgic colour palette nods to classic menswear, yet bold shapes, low-slung trousers, and cropped blazers disrupt convention. Power dressing no longer adheres to rigid formality; instead, it takes on sharp, structured shapes or relaxed, flowing lines, allowing for a more fluid expression of identity.

Subverting traditional ideas of formality, Acne injects playful irreverence into every detail. Brogues are adorned with studs, loafers feature bold Acne plaques, and sneakers blur the lines between ballet flats and classic boxing shoes. The new Camero bag offers a contemporary oversized take on the briefcase, while Western influences emerge in statement belt buckles and printed denim. Military-inspired elements, from flight hats to utility jackets, seamlessly integrate into the collection, creating a wardrobe that invites self-expression and experimentation.

All said, Acne maintains its signature laid-back cool. At its core, the collection paints a dynamic portrait of the modern man—one who effortlessly shifts between different worlds, from the gym to the boardroom, from nostalgia to reinvention. Rather than following established menswear codes, Acne Studios rewrites them. Whether through sharply tailored suits or slouchy silhouettes, the collection embraces individuality without taking itself too seriously. Cropped varsity vests emblazoned with ‘Pink Gym for Everyone’ sit alongside oversized shearling coats, proving that modern menswear isn’t just about making a statement—it’s about having fun while doing it.

Johansson masterfully balances tradition and innovation, delivering a collection that respects classic menswear while embracing contemporary edge.