Flair Fashion | London Fashion Week AW25
Words by Alex Shukri, Photographs by Lauren Cremer
This AW25 season, Flair Fashion presented London fashion week attendees, "Frontier Collective’s Runway”. The collective is dedicated to platforming emerging designers and advocating for innovation in sustainability, design, and technology. This season’s showcase featured eight designers, all notable for their forward-thinking craftsmanship and their flair.
The show kicked off with Fée Muse, whose models were the definition of royally chic. “Angels of Divine Garden” stays true to the title, combining elements of divine beings and nature - creating meticulously crafted, wearable art. Various glimmering fabrics, soft lace, and flowing materials give the collection a matrimonial feel, aided by a white lace veil and vine-like headpieces adorning a few of the models. With corsets and eloquently curated silhouettes, each piece is a perfect pair for the model wearing it -- emphasising their individual features. The common understood sentiment about ‘being able to tell when a designer loves a woman’ rings true here.
Next up was Yuyao Zhuo, a forward-thinking fashion brand that uses disused materials to create beautiful and eye-catching pieces. One man’s trash is truly another’s treasure with “Another Possibility”, focusing on the excessive packaging that decorates daily life. Sheer white headpieces were paired with black bikinis and a long white raincoat. Onlookers witnessed a dress made of Chanel drawstring bags, and slippers were sudden unsung stars of this collection -- undoubtably sticking to their mission of challenging perceptions of ‘waste’ and ‘fashion’. Each piece was masterfully re-crafted into something that belongs in a museum rather than a closet: a literal ever-lasting reminder of over-consumption and fashion’s role in sustainability.
Psy Lau, a Hong Kong streetwear brand, unfortunately lost the crowd’s attention. The pieces, while gorgeous and inspired by their Hong Kong roots, felt lacklustre. While these pieces, especially the long coats with skulls and calligraphy on them, are perfect additions to any streetwear lover’s closet, it didn’t feel as if the collection had much to say.
Following Psy Lau was ONGANG, a brand whose roots are in natural philosophy and emphasises clothes that flow. Literally and metaphorically. This collection, drawing inspiration from the 1969 Soviet Film The Color of Pomegranates, pairs flowing silhouettes with 17th-century Baroque comedy costumes. In theory, a combination that might not sound desirable or designable. But in reality, each creation is whimsical and inventive. Offerings included hoop skirts shaped like lamp shades, curtain knots as adjustable straps, and pieces that could turn peach, brown, and beige into colours that left the audience turning their head for the next garment.
Up next was WEVE2050, a brand committed to the everyday integration of eco-responsible design. Even from the name, WE HAVE (WEVE) reminds wearers, industry professionals, and onlookers alike of everyday consumption and waste that we all contribute to. In light of this, the collection, “Three Feet” utalised a zero-waste approach. Bamboo and its overnight rapid growth were the core idea here. 90% bamboo fabrics were used, all the while grass-dyed fabrics created gradually changing colourways. Elegantly eco-conscious, simplistic, and so many fun headpieces. Let’s hope if ‘the Queen wore this to a wedding’ headpieces become a trend, so does zero-waste fashion.
SINGULARITÉ, an experimental haute fashion brand, was up next. Science and philosophy go hand in hand with all their designs, so their latest collection “Origin and Awe” explored the life-and-death cycle. Inspired by the movie Annihilation and Banpo culture, this collection utilises vibrant fabrics with funky colours - showcasing some of the most fascinating pieces of the night. If you ever wondered what a rainbow fish would look like on the runway, these pieces answer that question in a memorable way. Of the most noteworthy looks, were a multi-coloured pastel dress that folded out like fish fins, bright teal tights paired with a sage-green and light brown patchwork dress, and a purple monochromatic outfit, all exhibiting a fascinating breath of fresh air.
PATIENT Z x Aesthetic Bullet’s collection, “Death of The Romantic” is a deeply personal collection for both Patient Z, an elevated daily-wear designer, and Aesthetic Bullet, a jewellery and accessory designer. Told through the jewellery and clothes alike, this collection focuses on the tense relationship between transformation and innocence. Each ensemble is inspired by Slavic folklore, mostly around ‘The Romantic’, a naive and gentle character who goes through trials and tribulations, leading to a metamorphosis. Dragging swords paired with cut-out sleeves and regal silhouettes. Sheer flowing fabric draped around a barefoot model as chains were styled alongside nearly every outfit as they alluded to the theme, every piece fitting perfectly into the life, and death, of The Romantic.
The show finished with Jean Louie Castillo’s collection, “Epitaph”. A series of designs inspired by grief and transcience, it was beyond haunting. While some of the audience giggled at the zombie-like movements of the models at first, the performance swiftly became a somber kind of enchanting. Impossible to turn away, the inspiration of Highgate Cemetery shone through every ensemble and model’s performance. Clinging ivy, weathered angel statues, and engravings lost to time all come to life (or death) as the models stumbled and strutted across the runway. Flowing silhouettes, slashed fabric (very KISS-esque), and angel wings atop tattered leaf-like fabric all grounded the collection in loss, love, and that uneasy feeling of facing the end.
