HKTDC Fashion Hong Kong | London Fashion Week AW25
Words by Willow Shields, Photos by Imogen Carmichael-Jack
As I stood outside of Protein Studios in Shoreditch, one margarita deep and buzzing with LFW fueled anxiety, I looked to fashion editor Lauren Bulla and videographer Julia Weaver... That's when I realised it was actually happening, we were at London Fashion week.
The Fashion Hong Kong showcase started shortly after we sat down on the (very slippy) long white benches provided by Protein Studios with Hong Kong Trade Development Council’s Director Joey Ko saying some words about the following show, “after a brief hiatus, since the last appearance that we had in 2020 at the London Fashion Week. Fashion Hong Kong is so proud and glad to be here with you all again this year." Then Gilford Law: Director General of the Hong Kong Economic and Trade office London said a few words, “Our mission is to promote Hong Kong and foster our bilateral relations. (...) So as the groundbreaking British designer Alexander McQueen has once said ‘fashion is a form of escapism not of a form of imprisonment.'" With the opening notes concluded, the show began... First up? Angus Tsui.
Angus Tsui
Angus Tsui’s AW25 ‘GIGER: Perfect Organism’ is a continuation from his SS25 collection ‘GIGER PART:1’ paying tribute to “brand’s biggest influence - Mr. H.R.Giger, which featured cutting edge exoskeleton details and sustainably developed textiles.” Giger, of course, being the creator of the 1979 film Alien, sees Angus Tsui inspired by “Mother” the AI computer who piloted the spaceship and monitored the crew while they were in cryosleep. This collection, along with the previous collection, is an imagining of “Mother having its physical form.” The audience was led through a dark squelching tunnel, soundtracked by bass heavy music, solidifying the slightly menacing sci-fi themes present throughout the collection. From first impressions, I was immediately reminded of Alexander McQueen (circa 2010). Leather-set massive claws became central motifs, with materials so shiny they looked wet. Details such as these solidified the narrative, as if models had just climbed out of a cryosleep chamber, dripping in space-goo. Reflective in the styling, models slick with wet-look hair gel. Some of the pieces were so natural, constructed via green and blue colourways, as if to showcase earthen detail. Immaculate detail work presented in the leather wear, with ribs of structure, alluding to somewhat of a second skin. A striking vision of black leather in a cropped vest was the show-stopping finale look. Massive gloves and voluminous maxi skirt accompanied the standout piece. The model walked as if mother herself had paid the audience a visit, staring into our souls, simultaneously frightening and captivating us. The divide between dark and light, natural and AI, expertly met in Angus Tsui’s AW25 ‘GIGER: Perfect Organism’
Bettie Jiong
Bettie Jiong aka Bettie Haute Couture/ Bettie Bespoke brought classical beauty to the runway at Fashion Hong Kong, she showed playful silhouettes combining influences from the early 1900’s and the 1980’s. The underlying statement with Bettie Jiong’s collection is one of sustainability and longevity by association. She marries elegance and timelessness in nuanced capacities, using zero waste pattern cutting alongside carefully selected environmentally conscious fabrics. Presenting a more simplistic and visually mature collection than previous seasons, a tonal range of beige and brown sauntered down the runway, like a paintbrush over a fresh canvas. Witnessing the collection soundtracked by classical music felt like being on a small boat on a river in some countryside English town. Collars became a standout for Bettie Jiong, showcased via extending shapes and subverting expectations. The collection's styling reminded me of the music video for “Wildest Dreams” by Taylor Swift. A classic red lipped beauty in simple, yet effective curation. Knitwear garments made an appearance, leaning more towards 1980’s inspirations, featuring large shoulder pads and cropped waitlines. Towards the tail end of the event, a pair of full denim two piece sets arrived. A men's and women's couples outfit hit the runway, denim jacket and matching straight leg trousers landed next to another playfully structured jacket paired with a pair of tiny shorts, Bettie’s classic beige-y brown in tow. I got the feeling that Bettie Jiong has most fun designing womenswear, playing more with the silhouettes, and finding more enjoyment in subverting expectations. Whereas her menswear pieces, while immaculately constructed and fun in their own right, appeared more standard than daring.
Rickyy Wong Studio
The show opened with a blue shirt and jeans, the models hair sticking on end, like a teen rockstar just rolling out of bed. The look was swiftly followed by a womenswear answer to the previous. Rickyy Wong’s collection was jovial and bright - the colour palette consisted of light blue/ dark blue/ brown/ deep red. One of the primary motifs being ovals, we saw cut outs in elbows, hips and necklines, the entire collection felt fluid yet well-curated. It felt as though the seventies met a nineties young rockstar couple’s wardrobe. Comfy knits brought a softer edge to the collection. Contrasting with striking jackets and colour blocking suits. We also saw gorgeous everyday essentials in a white silk vest and the aforementioned opening shirt that prompted ear to ear grins. The stand out was a brown dress, styled with the model’s hair in two braids, reminiscent of a Pattie Boyd or Linda McCartney look. Chilling on the homestead type of vibe - I was immediately obsessed.
Z I D I
With their own damn song soundtracking the show, Z I D I was the standout designer for me at this show. Having models stopping half way down the runway to look into the crowd and making the audience actually scream with joy (Julia Weaver, Lauren Bulla and I). Z I D I’s collection was a mix between futuristic sex robot, seventies suiting and booting, and flurries of fur. Z I D I pulled out absolutely all of the stops, showcasing each unique side of their operation, spanning a vast variety of aesthetics. The models were styled with playful synthetic wigs, fun makeup and accessories galore. If it’s possible to find a standout look from this collection, it would be the full purple leather fur jacket and hat look, paired with gigantic purple eyelashes. We found ourselves leaning over each other to try and catch a glimpse of the next look coming down the runway. The last few looks of the collection appeared as if to be haute couture gowns made of 80’s skiing jackets, a fun instalment of Z I D I’s sustainability mission. The show ended with a selection of models staying on the runway to walk creative director Nathan Moy up and down ending on an impromptu dance party. It felt like an Event. All involved were clearly relishing in the fun of it all. The show ended on a high note, feeling as if I witnessed something that few get the privilege to. It still gives me goosebumps to recount it now.
