The Return of Chainmail and The Reign of 'Medieval Core'
Words by Bex Whitley, Image via Nikita Karizma
As we step further into the highly anticipated 2025 fashion month, it’s clear that international designers are drawing from innovative fashion’s rich tapestry. Not just lightly revisiting collections of old, but exploring global heritage. One standout trend taking centre stage is the revival of chainmail. Often viewed through a Eurocentric lens as reminiscent of European medieval armour, chainmail’s significance extends far beyond Europe. In India, it was central to Mughal warfare, while Japan developed unique forms in the 14th century, showcasing its cultural versatility and global influence.
Coined by the internet as part of "Medievalcore," the question arises: will these metallic garments break into the mainstream or remain the domain of avant-garde designers and niche fashion circles? At the forefront of the chainmail narrative sits British-Indian fashion designer Nikita Karizma, whose eponymous label has garnered A-list wearers such as Julia Fox, Paris Hilton and Winnie Harlow. When asked about the inclusion of chainmail in her designs, she explains, “Chainmail reflects the era we’re living in. It’s a material that embodies strength, individuality, and artistry, which resonates deeply with the values shaping the fashion landscape in 2025.”
I sat down with Nikita Karizma, fashion designer and chainmail enthusiast, to garner more insight into her world and what it means to incorporate this iconic trend into contemporary designs.
Do you think there is a link between chainmail’s medieval outfit and its use today, why is this?
For me, the allure of chainmail lies in its ability to tell a story. It evokes the past while feeling futuristic and innovative—bridging eras in a way that’s deeply inspiring. It’s a reminder that fashion, like history, is about continuity and reinvention, and that we’re always finding new ways to connect with the past while pushing boundaries for the future.
A lot of our understanding of chainmail is very Eurocentric, where do you see its place within a wider history?
While chainmail is often associated with European medieval armour, its history extends beyond Europe, playing significant roles in various cultures across Asia. Understanding this broader context enriches our appreciation of chainmail's versatility and cultural significance. In India, chainmail was the armour of choice for the Mughal army and the Japanese developed their own unique type of chainmail in the 14th century.
Why do you think that chainmail has gained popularity/will be popular in 2025?
Chainmail reflects the era we’re living in. People are drawn to designs that evoke strength and resilience—qualities that feel particularly meaningful as we navigate a rapidly changing world. From red carpets to ready-to-wear collections, chainmail has proven its ability to adapt and evolve while maintaining its iconic identity. It’s a material that embodies strength, individuality, and artistry, which resonates deeply with the values shaping the fashion landscape in 2025.
Image via Nikita Karizma
What are your favourite chainmail outfits you have seen?
I love our signature 90s chainmail dress that Paris Hilton wore to film her music video with best friend Kim Kardashian. [See above]. Versace & Paco Rabanne are my favourite designers that work closely with chainmail. I love how Dua Lipa & Winnie Harlow style chainmail.
How would you see chainmail included within styling, for luxury/catwalk versus within general wardrobes?
For your personal wardrobe I would style chainmail tops to wear over jeans for a dinner or a matching co-ord with mini skirt for a nightclub. Poster Girl and my brand Nikita Karizma have accessible chainmail pieces. For the catwalk, chainmail is layered, draped, printed and it is a fabric with endless experimentation! Versace & Paco Rabanne are my favourite runway designers that specialise in chainmail.
What role does chainmail play within your brand? What inspired you to incorporate it?
We were working with Alesha Dixon, her stylist Laury Smith requested chainmail, & chainmail has been a fashion designer's love-story since then! For me chainmail really works with my signature design aesthetic of glitz & glamour for the modern day global it-girl.
In your opinion, what statement do chainmail inclusions give?
In my designs, chainmail is a celebration of individuality and fearlessness. It empowers the wearer to feel confident, and unapologetically themselves.
Do you think chainmail works throughout fashion, from luxury and glamour to highstreet, to streetwear and beyond?
Absolutely, chainmail is one of those rare materials that transcends categories in fashion, effortlessly adapting to everything from luxury and glamour to high street and streetwear. Its versatility lies in its ability to evoke a range of emotions and aesthetics depending on how it’s used and styled.
What feeling do you hope for your chainmail designs to evoke, within those seeing them and those wearing them?
My chainmail designs are about celebrating strength, beauty, and transformation. They’re meant to make a statement, for the wearer and the world around them, about the power of being unapologetically yourself.
Equipo FC X Under Armour
Karizma is far from alone in embracing the apparent "chainmail revolution." High-profile designers such as Paco Rabanne—known for incorporating chainmail throughout their collections—continue to experiment with its versatility. On the runway, Bottega Veneta teased a collection featuring chainmail midi skirts paired with leather bodices, while Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing debuted futuristic chainmail gowns in bold neon hues. The material’s adaptability—whether styled as a standalone piece or as an accent—cements its potential as more than just a seasonal fixation.
Chappell Roan MTV Awards - Mike Coppola/ Getty Images
According to Pinterest Predicts 2025, "Medievalcore" as a wider trend is set to prevail in the coming year, with the platform reporting a 110% increase in searches for the term. Earlier this month, Under Armour collaborated with Spanish creative studio Equipo FC on a medieval-inspired drop, which featured chainmail elements throughout. This collection illustrates the potential for the trend to reach across categories, with styling options appealing to both men and women. An outpouring of interest also circumvented the trend as a result of Chappell Roan’s iconic MTV VMA’s look, decorated in medieval accents and head to toe chainmail.
While bold trends like this often divide opinion, chainmail stands out for its surprising versatility. It can be easily incorporated as accessories, subtle embellishments that complement various styles—or embraced wholeheartedly in risqué, full-coverage high fashion pairings. In the words of Nikita Karizma, “It’s a reminder that fashion, like history, is about continuity and reinvention. We’re always finding new ways to connect with the past while pushing boundaries for the future.”
Will we see chainmail sauntering up and down the high street? Probably not. However, its adaptability, durability, and unique ability to merge glamour with edgy appeal suggests that chainmail could become one of the defining aesthetics of the season.