Marcel Ostertag | Berlin Fashion Week AW25
Words by Alex Shukri, Photographs by Kaya Oatley.
Everyone is always trying to reinvent the wheel, but why not repurpose what it can already do? Berlin-based innovator Marcel Ostertag approaches his practice with an appreciation for traditional influences via a modern gaze. This year’s collection presented new creative expansions all the while, remaining tethered to original brand visions. That being, high-quality, fairly produced wearable-art. His collections, visibly distinct with their vibrant everyday luxury, honour his mother and other influential figures like his late mentor, Louise Wilson.
Commitment to eco-friendly and equitable working practices, paves the way for his works to fit perfectly into emerging patterns in this year’s Berlin Fashion Week… The natural environment and workers who craft the garments must come first.
This year’s collection, INSOMNIA, enraptured audiences on the first night of Berlin Fashion Week. While guests and press had their phones out to film, more eyes were on the runway than the soft blue glow of the screens recording it. Opaque black pieces were light-catching and vibrant, in part thanks to the glimmer intermeshed within the fabrics. The allure of the runway translated audiences into a sultry atmosphere. With a simple runway, a neon green light emitting from the model's starting place, and techno remixes at just the right volume, the ambience was perfect. Enough that it was like an accessory to the show, but not distracting from the actual stars.
While faux leather has its haters and lovers, it was one of the star fabrics in this season’s collection, joining shining silk and classic knit: all working in harmony with lively prints and extravagant frills. Frill lovers will absolutely adore this collection. As will anyone who’s looking for their next standout piece. Cocktail dresses, glimmery jackets that seem to sparkle of their own accord as the models strut, and a multitude of pieces for all occasions in shades of greens, pinks, blues, and gold. These pieces are glamorous, but glamorous that can, and should be, seen walking down the runway and street.
Don’t let the fear of over-extravagance damper any desire for these garments: the call-back to the restless excitement of the late 1970s is a flavour of fun that everyone should indulge in. These ready-to-wear garments are envisioned as if to walk straight off the runway into the audience’s wardrobes, styled for the everyday and dramatic enough for one’s evening affairs - exactly as Ostertag envisions. The collection became a gracefully executed homage to a time period known for its unabashed exuberance.
