Richert Beil | Berlin Fashion Week AW25
Words by Alex Shukri, Photographs by Kaya Oatley
Mother is one of those words that conjure countless emotions, memories - each individual holding a specific connection to its’ nuanced connotations. Richert Beil’s AW25’s collection MUTTER (mother in German), showcased a collection which complemented imagery of chalk-covered, seemingly abandoned, half-constructed concrete walls and pillars. Distantly - the sounds of a newborn’s wails and children’s laughter created a haunting, echoing embrace.
Designers, Jalle Richert and Michele Beil explain that MUTTER “explores the depth of emotional and physical exhaustion through the imagery of a tired and overburdened mother caught in the state of exception. Extending beyond gender, the show offers a meditation on the unseen labour that sustains society…” The collection is a response to the non-negotiable demands of women to reproduce, perform, and nurture with unwavering grace and gratitude. A commentary one may consider a bit outdated noting that it is indeed 2025. Though with the rise of “traditional”values arriving back to the fore of societal consciousness, this collection was not only poignant, but gripping - in line with the global political climate.
The show presented a narrative laden with caricatures of day to day human life. Models followed closely behind a woman depicted as ‘mother’, holding roses contrasting to the young accompanying children - directly assisting the storyline. Her under eyes were intentionally accentuated amidst the harsh lighting. The look was relatively casual, styled in a beige t-shirt atop a grey long sleeve. This combination was paired with a black leather knee-length skirt over trousers - a clear nod to the recently re-popularised skirts-over-trousers trend. Most of all, what stuck out was the haunting demeanour worn in the expressions and movements of the models. As the show went on, we witnessed a heavily pregnant person wearing a skin-tight dress - stomach and eyes peeking from beneath.
Final notes written by Lauren Bulla
The garments present us an opportunity of quiet meditation on the woes of society’s expectation of “mothers” to be nothing short of perfect, productive, and giving - to the point of complete collapse. The show took place at Fichtebunker which is an abandoned bunker situated in Kreuzberg. Chillingly - it was previously “a place to stay for mothers and their children during World War II”. The collection presents us the opportunity to redefine values of love, community, and rest.
A “holy angel” can be seen positioned within the set design, offering attendees a symbol of calm in the otherwise abrasive environment. In a world that is growing more and more politically discursive, false narratives depicting the way we treat our communities - authenticity becomes the only currency that will withstand. This collection points us in the right direction.
Will we listen to the wails in the distance and find our centre, or continue our pursuit of perfection into oblivion?
