Tolu Coker | London Fashion Week AW25
Words by Talitha Messham, Photographs by Henry Jay Kammy, courtesy of Tolu Coker.
Exploring a dialogue between spirituality and community, the collection draws inspiration from ‘ORI’; a Yoruba metaphysical concept of “signifying one’s spiritual intuition and essence of self.” Each look holds a deep reverence for what’s come before, paying homage to ritual and ceremonial dress across the world - a celebration of cultural diaspora. Billowing creamy balloon sleeves present atop crisp white bubble skirts, thus lending to the garments worn in Aladura churches. All the while - corseted, cinched waists nod to classic European tailoring. Form-fitting silhouettes are consistent throughout, with tight pleats and flowy skirts cascading over drop-waistlines.
With sustainability and dedicated craftsmanship at the beating heart of Coker’s work, she decided to exhibit the collection as if we were walking into a presentation at her own atelier, instead of a runway. Models clutched stalks of cotton and wooden rosaries as Grammy-winning producer, Gaeten Judd, led the live band that soundtracked the showcase. Upcycled fabrics, deadstock wools and eco-leathers harness the painstaking attention to detail conveyed within the collection, highlighting the symbolism of craftsmanship across the African diaspora and the innate spirituality that dress holds. A mustard tartan trench-coat enveloped a point-collared shirt, further drawing on British iconography. Coker’s roots were referenced throughout sometimes as subtlety as looks embellished with a simple navy tie. Pops of citrus orange laid beside warm browns on a striped, satin print added a zing to the collection’s earthy colour palette, amongst carmine reds, deep greens and sandy beiges.
Touching on “fashion as heirloom”, each of the 20 looks represent an extension of Coker’s self, using garments from previous collections in an evolution of identity. It challenges fashion’s disposable nature, promoting thoughtful wear against dominant turn and burn micro-trend cycles. High quality materials amid extensive attention to detail, inspire a timelessness to be passed down through generations. The focus on sturdy fabrics like denim-jacquards, gaberdine, and poplin suggest a much anticipated shift towards durable, long-lasting clothing for fashion. Feminine, double-breasted jackets, subtle pleats on peg pants and clean shoulder lines evince the meticulous tailoring within each look, placing emphasis on the slow, honed craft as a preferred alternative to fast fashion.
Accessorised by pointed kitten heels in Coker’s ongoing collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, it blends a simplistic yet contemporary flair rooted within the historically-inspired collection. White, elbow-length gloves stand out in a sanguine red look, with a swooping peter-pan collar and sculpted, sailor-like hat made by Virna Pasquinelli. Elegant and tender, it fits in with this season’s intentionally pared-down feel. Allowing silhouette and construction to leave a lasting impression via the collection’s deeply reflective nature.
